Showing posts with label Cape Hatteras surf. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Cape Hatteras surf. Show all posts

Saturday, July 11, 2009

My New Long Board



Hawaiian Pro Designs - 9'3" In The Pink

This board, as well as my 11'0" SUP, were shaped by Donald Takayama.

Both boards are works of art. They'd look amazing just hanging on a wall. But that's not what they were designed to do. They were designed to be wave riding vehicles and that's how I intend to use them.

Like I tell all kiteboarders...you must have no wind activities. You can't just sit on the beach with a wind meter waiting for something to happen. In the words of Trip Forman, co-founder of REAL Watersports, extremely passionate kiteboarder, surfer and SUPer...and my boss...

"There is always a session to be had."

A Waterman...or Waterwoman...is proficient in all three sports. Since I arrived in Cape Hatteras in February I've been working to improve my skills at all three. Lately I have to admit I've been spending more time in the ocean on a SUP or long board than kiting. Besides being an extraordinary workout, surfing skills without a doubt improve your kiting abilities in the ocean...especially in the surf. Now that I'm catching waves consistently and feeling much more confident in the ocean, I crave a good SUP or long board session as much as I crave a good day of kiting.

It's Saturday morning. The day is all mine. Doesn't look like there's going to be much wind today (we're coming off of three days straight of NE winds allowing for some epic ocean downwinders so no complaints here). I'll definitely be catching a surf somewhere. I had a great SUP session last night on the south side, across from the Graveyard of the Atlantic Museum. Still nursing my ribs though. My new Tak SUP and I had quite the collision last weekend. I probably should be taking it much easier than I am but...life is short. :o)

Thursday, June 18, 2009

Baptism

Today after work a bunch of us headed to Corbina to surf. The waves were bigger than I’d seen them in a while and still being a rookie surfer, I was intimidated by the size of the waves as well as the number of quality surfers in the lineup. I watched from the beach for a few minutes before deciding to paddle out. When the waves are head high or bigger, just paddling out can be an ordeal.


Since I got to Cape Hatteras in February, the ocean has intimidated me. In all three of the tri-sports, as I call them, kiting, surfing and standup paddle boarding, I had taken my beatings in the ocean. And of course, my imagination is always running wild about what lurks below my feet. Today, after paddling out, as I sat on my board to catch my breadth, a dolphin breached within 15 feet of me. But it takes a half of one second for your mind to register DOLPHIN and not MAN EATING SHARK. Needless to say I was very relieved a half a second later.


They’re beautiful when they’re that close and at eye level with you. This fear or intimidation that plagues me actually subsides after spotting sea life. To see fish below your feet and dolphins breaching makes you realize that you CAN coexist in the ocean with all of the sea creatures around you. No reason to fear.


Without that fear, your body relaxes and confidence returns as you acknowledge the fact that it’s just water. Attack that wave! Paddle hard! Feel the board accelerate! Get on your feet! What a tremendous feeling of confidence to surf a wave.


The ocean water here in Cape Hatteras is so clear and so clean that you feel refreshed enough to not require a shower after your session. But it’s also cleansing to the soul. To enter the ocean feeling so small and exit, after your session, feeling larger than life. I was immediately reminded of why I’m here and why I came to this place. I’ll sleep like a baby tonight in my board shorts. I don’t want to shower just yet. I’m going to let the salt linger on my skin until the morning.